Traveling Angler

Montauk Point: A Surfcaster Paradise

This article originally appeared in On The Water magazine

Facing an end to yet another season in never easy. Mixed emotions abound, ranging from exuberance of a last blitz to a deep disappointment, almost always a courtesy of the big one that got away. But what is a New England surfcaster to do if he is not ready to hang his waders in the garage and get reacquainted with his sofa and remote control? Head down to a place still abundant with bait, where sign of “Surfcasting Capital of the World” will greet you upon arrival, a little piece of heaven were life seem to revolve not around work schedule but around tide periods and stripers, Montauk Point, NY. Fondly regarded as a “Mecca” by regulars, shoreline encompassing Town of Montauk features diverse surfcasting opportunities all within minutes of each other. On the north side facing Block Island Sound and featuring mostly placid water is favorite playground of light tackle enthusiasts, with places like Napeague, Goff point, Culloden and Gin beach. On the opposite side of the town, facing Atlantic Ocean are miles of pristine sandy beach, popular with the families and by those who prefer not to be climbing rocks like a mountain goats. And of course, the most famous and heavily fish place of all, the rocky shoreline on both sides of the fabled Montauk Lighthouse. Places like Caswells, Kings, Browns, Driftwood Cove on South Side or Bluffs, Scotts, False and North bar on the North side are legendary locations know up and down the east coast for their big fish potential. Most of the blitz fishing and consequently, the crowded conditions have ceased by this time of the year as many anglers moved west on Long Island south shore following the fish but the area around the Point can be counted to hold fish all the way thru Thanksgiving in most years. If you take a look at the map you will notice that Montauk Point benefits greatly by sticking out into the ocean 120 miles away from NYC, creating and impediment to a baitfish migration traveling from northern regions and consequently their last obstruction before they make a beeline southward towards their final destination. As baitfish empties from Long Island harbors they meet with their New England siblings. This often massive congregations of bait in shallow waters around the Point draw the attention of the stripers who move in from deep water rips, looking to fatten up their own belies before heading for their wintering grounds in Chesapeake Bay.

Darter don’t leave home without it

If you visited all of the hotspots along the coast you will would find that each has its own eccentricity in regards to which lures are predominantly used. Considering each location has its own characteristics, from bottom contours, varying dept and most importantly type of bait that makes up the diet of a striper its not surprising that local anglers are very much in tune of what works in their own little neck of the woods. Cape  fisherman who are blessed with large sand eel and deep water in close proximity of the beach think nothing of tossing a foot long needlefish lure while New Jersey anglers know well that same lure will be digging in the bottom of their shallow oceanfront beaches before they can put a line back on the roller. The area around Montauk Point State park is a boulder-strewn terrain with fairly shallow waters but very fast current movement. Consequently, the most popular lure used is the one designed to swim few inches under the surface and is designed specifically for use in the fast current, a darter. Quintessential Montauk lure primarily used in the dark, darters move in the zigzag fashion, forced by the current into changing its direction every few cranks of the reel. They are absolutely deadly when casted in the rips that form on the hard bottom “bars” that form on either side of and especially under the fabled lighthouse itself. These areas of unstable water form when water flow is impeded by the underwater irregularity, be that a boulder, shallow bar or a deep hole and the baitfish that was a chugging along gets swept into this turbulent water becoming an easy meal for much stronger gamefish. Yellow is by far the most popular color and this probably stems from days when juvenile weakfish were plentiful and made a large part of the stripers diet. Darker shaded plugs, particularly black and gold, black and purple and all black plugs are most productive on the nights when visibility as it at its lowest, often associated with the passing of a new moon. Darters made by Super Strike Lure Co. are by far most commonly use as they take punishment from the fish and the rocky terrain much better that its wooden counterparts. During month of November the sand eels make their return appearance, after summering in the deeper, cooler water and needlefish lures becomes a steady producers under the cover of darkness. When packing the bag keep in mind that fishiest waters, those found around the Lighthouse are fairly shallow so bring a slow sinking needlefish plugs and leave those foot long, broom stick looking monstrosity at home. Of course, when targeting big fish there is no substitute for tossing a “living” lure” when conditions allow. Those casting eels either live or rig takes disproportionate number of large bass every year usually by wading out to boulder-strewn points on the south side of the lighthouse. If darter is a prince of darkness than the bucktail reign as a king of the daylight .By far the most productive plug in the daytime, bucktails are deadly when bounced around the boulders which dot the shoreline and extend a few hundred yards away from the shore. Because of its plentiful and dense design Andrus Jetty caster are by far the most commonly found attached to the leader of the Montauk regulars as they sink at slower rate than most other bucktails in similar size yet they cast just as well. One to one and a half ounces are the most prevalent size with the heavier 2 ounces and up commonly used in the stormy weather with a stiff wind in your face. Add a strip of Uncle Josh 240s pork ring; either red over white or all white and you will look like a regular in no time. Pencil poppers are another old-time favorite for those working the daytime tides. Tins have their moment on the sandy beaches especially when rigged in tandem with a teaser while metal lip see a lot of action around dawn and dusk.

Storm fishing

If your intent is tangling with a large specimen you must pay particular attention to the weather conditions. Almost religiously, local sharpies stack up at certain locations on specific wind direction knowing that strong onshore winds often push bait and large fish at their feet. Area around the point is famous for its productivity during Nor’easters, as it lay’s right in the path of oncoming wind, facing east. Shagwong Point rip that lies a little east off Montauk Harbor entrance is another location with legendary reputation for the cows it coughs up during strong winds out of northwest direction coupled with dropping tide. The key is to fish during the periods when wind and the tide/current are moving in the same direction. At the Point that would be last of the flood while at Shag the ebb current is the always the key. Although the strong in-your-face wind often push the fish right at your feet you still need to make a cast up-tide and be able to feel it work. Forget light whimsy rods and small Scandinavian type swimmer, this is a large plug territory. For punching your cast thru the Noreast winds often gusting over 30 mph, sheets of rain and large swells you will need heavy-duty rods and plugs capable of digging in the rough water. Gibbs bottle plugs, loaded Super Strike needlefish and heavy bucktails are often the only thing that will deliver under these conditions. Many memorable blitzes occurred in November on these beaches particularly when herring and peanut bunker were around. As always, the availability and the size of bait is the key to success when fishing these storms but when it all comes together, the wind, large bait and stripers it usually becomes an event that is talked about for many years afterwards.

Location

The only decision more difficult then choosing which lures to bring along on a trip is where to actually fish them.  Being blessed by its peninsular shape Montauk beaches offer diverse angling opportunities. Light tackle enthusiasts find plenty of areas to their liking on Block Island Sound side of town, most within walking distance from the town lots. Both side of the Montauk harbor entrance are popular with fly fisherman and those employing light gear. Although resident fish found here are generally smaller than other locations what they lack in size they make up in consistency. On the opposite side of town are sandy beaches that stretch for miles westward. Lack of structure to hold the fish at particular location usually means that those fortunate to have town 4 wheel drive permits and are able to chase after birds and fish do much better than those powered by their limbs alone. Although November action in Montauk depends on many variables from availability of bait to weather pattern last few years the action has held up pretty nicely thru the month’s end and sandy beaches were often places to be as bass were marauding peanut bunker in the surf line. However good the action might be on either side of the town the rocky shoreline around the Point is the reason most anglers forsake their sleep, families and job, at least for few days at the time. This stretch of waterfront, which encompasses Montauk Point and its neighboring Camp Hero State Park, can usually be counted to provide the most consistent action in daytime and especially in the dark. Rocky points that extent into the ocean, large algae covered boulders and sandy coves abutted by soaring cliffs attract a lot of marine life and in turn hold good population of resident fish. For generations the common rule has been that one start fishing the points on the south side of the lighthouse at low water moving eastward with the incoming water, ending under the lighthouse itself for the last of the flood. South side is made out of series of rocky points and coves and some of the boulders can only be waded to at low water. Many regular wear wetsuits for this reason in particular as it affords them more comfort and ability to withstand rushing waves when fishing these locations. The most famous and most inhospitable place to fish is unfortunately also the one that is most productive. You kind of knew that, right? Rocks that form the base of the Montauk Point Lighthouse are located in the some very fishy waters but to get to them you have to scale down the wall of massive boulders and then get a solid footing on the slime covered rocks. Did I forgot to mention that large breakers will come at you at will trying to smash you into the rocks behind you every few minutes? I guess I forgot that little detail. As the tide floods from Atlantic Ocean and hugs the point before wrapping itself around it creates a very strong rip under the lighthouse. Although this place can hold fish anytime the most productive stage of the tide is last of the flood. This can also be an extraordinary dangerous place to cast your lure and extreme caution should be observed at all times. Best fishing is usual found around times when wind is out of east or Noreast direction but alas, this is when the conditions are at its worse. Winds out of easterly direction push the water strait into the lighthouse, creating large swells and dangerous conditions. However, they also make current move even faster resulting into a stronger rip and it pushes the baitfish right into the rip. At times during these periods of surging surf regulars fish from the top balcony and if they get a good size fish on they try to land it away from the lighthouse rocks. Again, landing the fish under the light is a chore under even the best weather conditions and its imperative that angler has an idea of were will he land his fish before making his first cast. Darters and bucktails rule the rust here with bottle plugs seeing a lot of action in the stormy weather .On the left of the lighthouse, facing west are series of shallow reefs or bars. Jones reef is the first you encounter with False and North Bar few hundreds yard away. Outgoing current creates outstanding conditions at these locations as the rips form on the down tide of the bars and in these fast moving, shallow waters a strategically placed darter or needlefish lure produces with consistency. Surfcasting at night in any rocky area requires some specialized equipment and Montauk beaches are no exception. Most of the boulders are covered with green, slimy algae and obtaining solid footing along with a good balance is difficult even on the flattest of rocks. Other marine growth and kelp only exacerbate the difficulty when wading on the rocks you’ll feel as if you are walking on bowling balls. Ad to the equation an ever-present rolling surf which will try its best to knock you of your perch and you can understand why Korkers or similar style studded cleats are standard equipment here. If you wish to remain dry thru the tide, that is. Watertight tops are also necessity keeping the water out of your waders, especially when you get knock on your behind by a surging wave. And believe me, you will! Mother nature humbles even the biggest “expert” on these shores. In early 1960’s cadre of Montauk surfcasting pioneers started utilizing wetsuits in order to reach the distant boulders they could not wade to in waders. Today the wetsuit-clad angler is as prevalent as the one wearing a waders. Of course, human nature inspired some brave (or insane, take your pick) souls to push the boundaries of “surfcasting” even further. These gentlemen took advantage of natural buoyancy of a wetsuit by adding a pair of flippers to their feet and swimming offshore to the waters outside the surf zone, waters only frequented by boating anglers in the past. Local angler Paul “Skisher” Melnyk is credited of starting this insane form of angling and he inspired many copycats with his penchant for bringing large bass back to the shore. This seemingly ludicrous way of angling in involves bobbing on the back while casting or trolling eels in the rips, in waters that have known to feature sharks, thankfully not so frequently. The term “skishing” was coined by Paul as a cross between skiing and fishing and he is often planning on the water head fist as a large bass pulls him around.

Lodging

Even though current housing boom has made Montauk real estate exuberantly expensive once the beachcombers have departed after Labor Day, motel room rates drop drastically.  There are many motel and cottage owners who cater to fishermen in the fall, and their parking lots are often jammed with a cooler equipped SUV’s, some even go a step further and supply their guests with certain town parking permits during their stay.  When it comes to beach permits unfortunately there are 3 municipalities that claim to part of this very fishy waters. The one permit you should consider getting is issued by New York State Parks, and it encompasses areas of Montauk Point State Park, Camp Hero and Hitter Hill’s and Napeague State Park.  It’s a 4-wheel drive permit that also doubles as a night fishing permit, which is used to gain access to the parking lots at night. In addition the holders of these permits are also allowed to drive on a stretch of sandy beach in Hitter Hills State Park, which lies west of the town.  These sandy beaches can be very productive especially in November if the peanut bunker is present in the wash.  The other permits are issued by the town of East Hampton and Suffolk County respectively and are quite pricey. Suffolk County permits which allows 4 wheeling on a small strip of beach on the north side will cost you twice as much as the State permit while Town of East Hampton 4X4 permit which allows for driving on sandy beaches behind town costs five times the permit fee state charges. The sandy beaches behind town can be fished by parking in one of the town lots and walking over the dunes.  There are 2 full time tackle stores in the town that will fill any of your needs and will point you in the direction where good action can be expected.  Everything an angler might need is here, rocks, sand, place to stay and most importantly, stripers. All that is missing is you. So come on down, we’ll save a rock for you.